On and off the slopes in Bansko, Bulgaria


On and off the slopes in Bansko, Bulgaria

Skiers in brightly coloured jackets weighed down by boots and skis stagger along the pavement, overtaken by a horse and cart and watched by a group of old ladies chatting on a bench by the roadside. Not a sight you’d normally expect to see in a ski resort, but Bansko is a ski town with a twist. On one side you’ve got the Pirin Mountains with their towering peaks and modern ski resort. Then on the other side you’ve got a historic Bulgarian town full of cobbled streets and atmospheric restaurants. You can party on and off the piste then soak it off in a hot spring, or take a day out to visit a mountain vineyard or historic monastery. Whether you’re happier when you’re on or off the slopes, here are some of Bansko’s highlights.

Read more: What’s it like skiing in Bulgaria?

Bansko skiing

Overlooking Bansko from the piste

On the slopes

Bansko’s located 160km south of the Bulgarian capital Sofia, an easy 2.5-hour transfer from the airport. It’s the country’s most popular ski resort, set between three mountain ranges with the ski area up at an altitude of 2000–2600 metres. The height means it gets reliable snow cover between December and March (and if not most pistes are covered by snow cannons), as well as having some pretty spectacular views. The ski area has around 70km worth of pistes – not huge by Alpine standards but there’s a good mixture of levels, with eight blue runs, 11 reds and two blacks. The piste map shows one run off to the right but that’s not been running for a while, so the ski area is concentrated around Bunderishka and Shiligarnika.

Views across Bansko

Views from the top of the mountain

Lessons are cheap and instructors speak good English, so it’s a great place to learn to ski or board, or to polish up your skills. There’s also one of the nicest beginner slopes I’ve skied on – the Ski Road. This gentle, tree-lined, 15km run takes you back down to the town and is perfect for getting your ski legs (though nervous skiers might want to steer well clear around 4.30pm when there’s a mass exodus off the slopes). If you’re an advanced skier you might get a bit bored with the main pistes, but there’s some good off-piste and tree runs as long as there’s been plenty of snow. Or there are a few companies that run ski touring trips, where you’re taken out with a guide and spend the night in one of the mountain huts.

Skiing in Bansko, Bulgaria

Bansko’s ski lifts

Bansko’s had a lot of recent investment so lifts are modern and fast, with mostly chairlifts in the ski area. Though to get up there you need to take a 25-minute gondola ride. It’s the resort’s biggest bottleneck with the worst queues around 9am (don’t be too polite and British about queuing either or you’ll never get to the front!). It’s best to get there early or late to miss the worst – or look out for the minibuses shuttling people up to the top. They’re included in the lift pass and not so many people know about them so there isn’t so much of a line. There are plenty of cafés dotted around the slopes if you want to stop for a drink or something to eat during the day – and a row of bars near the gondola for après-ski partying.

Bansko's UNESCO World Heritage old town

Cobbled streets in the old town

Off the slopes

If you’re a non-skier – or just fancy a day off – the good thing about Bansko is that it’s not just a resort town, so there’s more to it than its slopes. You don’t have to go far from the edge of town with its building work and tourist bars to feel like you’ve gone back a few centuries. Bansko’s old town is a UNESCO World Heritage site, with a maze of cobbled streets and stone buildings. Some are open to the public, like Velyanov House with its historic murals. Others have been turned into mehanas, old-style taverns where you can try traditional Bulgarian food and wine. There are also craft stalls dotted around the old town, a couple of churches, museums and statues – it’s the type of place to get lost and see what you find.

Bansko old town

New friends in the old town

Just outside Bansko, the village of Banya is famous for its thermal mineral springs. You can go and soak away the skiing aches and pains, with pools ranging from 32–43 degrees. It’s a bargain too at the equivalent of £2.50 for spa entry (which comes with a drink), and £11 for a half-hour massage. Go in the late afternoon to watch the sunset while you soak. A bit further afield you can also take days trips from Bansko to the medieval Roshen Monastery and the tiny town of Melnik with its sand pyramids and wineries. It’s not all about winter either. If you visit Bansko in summer there’s lots of good hiking in the Pirin National Park – home to wild bears. There’s also mountain biking, climbing, horse-riding and rafting nearby.

Snomads Chalet Diana Ross

Snomads’ Chalet Diana Ross

The details

We stayed at Snomads’ Chalet Diana Ross, in a quiet residential area on the edge of Bansko’s old town. It’s about 15 minutes’ walk to the gondola, but there’s a minibus shuttle service so you can just call for a lift. The chalet’s one of three in and around Bansko run by Snomads, all based on environmentally and socially responsible principles. So everything’s recycled, they use eco cleaning products and serve up tasty organic local food and wine. Diana Ross sleeps 25, with all en-suite rooms spread over four floors plus a hot tub, sauna, table tennis and cosy lounge. It’s a relaxed, friendly place, run by chalet hosts who’ve racked up over 30 winter seasons working throughout Europe so know what skiers and boarders want. It’s also good value, with prices ranging from £199 to £399 a week per person, half-board, including airport transfers.

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On and off the slopes in Bansko, Bulgaria

Many thanks to Snomads for hosting me in Bansko. All views and opinions are, as always, my own.


  1. Living in Adelaide currently, I can say its not the most exciting city, but with the March festivals, the art events and the relaxed feel, I enjoy it 🙂
    If you come back to SA, some places you might consider are on the Yorke Peninsula – tiny towns with friendly people and beautiful, clear beaches. Wallaroo, Kadina and Moonta (the Copper Coast) have fantastic history, and Innes National Park is always great to stay at.

  2. I have spent 3.5 hours on this web site and am completely amazed, inspired and in awe with your travels, writing and the great job you have done on the site. I have to go to sleep now one hour later than I should with work tomorrow morning. I have been to Playa Del Carmen once in Nov. 2001 and fell in love with the area. I am planning a trip back to that area again next year, but may not be fond of all the growth that has taken place since I was last there.

  3. Great guide, very helpful for part-time travelers like me! 🙂
    I am lucky to work for an U.S. company that also gives U.S. holidays, so flights and transport are much cheaper if I take the opportunity to travel on holidays that are not local.


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