Set on the banks of the Rhône and surrounded by medieval stone ramparts, Avignon is one of Provence’s biggest cities. So I was expecting it to be, well, a bit more like a big city. But instead I found a place with a relaxed, small town feel. It comes with a fascinating history, and its time as home of the Popes means there’s some impressive art and architecture. But it’s not just looking towards to the past – there’s a big student population and new bars, restaurants and shops springing up all the time.