Herefordshire, the English county I grew up in, is a rural landscape of cider orchards, hop yards and rolling hills. But there’s a touch of monochrome among the greenery – the black and white half-timbered buildings. There are hundreds of these buildings in the north-east of the county. Some date back to the 16th and 17th centuries, but the idea of painting the oak beams black and the walls white is a Victorian one. The most picturesque villages are linked by a 40-mile circular route – the ‘Black and White Village Trail’, stretching from Leominster to the Welsh borders.